In the early autumn of 2020, I walked from the border city of Carlisle in the north of England to Whithorn in the south-west of Scotland and then from Whithorn on to Glasgow. In this latter section, I generally took the route of the Whithorn Way albeit in the opposite direction to what is anticipated in the very informative guidebook available and the waymarkers you see as you go.
For some time, I had wanted to walk on pilgrimage in Scotland, this particular peregrinatio giving me the opportunity to begin to learn about the very early Christianisation of this area of the British Isles as well as later periods of religious history in Scotland, notably the Covenanter movement of the seventeenth century. Meanwhile, I also came across lively contemporary churches, historic abbeys, a newly-established Orthodox place of worship and the stunning, ancient Ruthwell Cross.
The landscapes I crossed varied from the rolling pastures of Dumfries and Galloway, to the spectacular coast of Ayrshire and the more urban areas around the great city of Glasgow. As regards the wider history of Scotland, I visited sites where notable figures such as Robert the Bruce and William Wallace are commemorated as well as many places related to the national poet, Robert Burns.
Socially-distanced prayer at Carlisle Cathedral. The restrictions in place as regards the pandemic were a significant factor during this walk The Ruthwell Cross, probably dating from the early 8th century when this border area was part of the Anglo-Saxon kingdom of Northumbria The newly-established Orthodox church of St Alban near Dalbeattie Encouraging words in difficult times. At Gatehouse of Fleet The very moving memorial to the 17th century Covenanter martyrs at Wigtown The ancient Priory at Whithorn. This very early place of pilgrimage dates back to the time of St Ninian, who was active in the late 4th and early 5th centuries ‘Providing practical help and spiritual support.’ A reminder of the work of The Fishermen’s Mission at the harbour in Girvan on the Ayrshire coast Street art depicting a modern-day St Mungo, the 6th century saint who is believed to be the founder of the city and its cathedral